How to Fix a Sticking Door
A door that sticks, drags, or won't close properly is usually caused by loose hinges, swollen wood, or a house that has settled. Fix it in 30-60 minutes with these simple adjustments.
Repair & Refinish Team
Published March 9, 2026 · Updated March 20, 2026
What You'll Need
- Phillips screwdriver
- Hand plane or sanding block
- Hammer
- Utility knife
- Carpenter's pencil
- Chisel (1 inch)
- 3-inch wood screws (to replace short hinge screws)
- Wood glue and toothpicks (for stripped holes)
- Sandpaper (80-grit and 120-grit)
- Primer and paint (for exposed wood)
Cost Estimate
Budget
$0
Mid-Range
$10
Premium
$20
A handyman charges $75-$150 for door adjustment. DIY cost is $0-$20 (you may already have everything you need).
Step-by-Step Instructions
Identify Where the Door Sticks
Step 1 of 6Close the door slowly and observe where it rubs or catches. Check the top corner, latch side, and bottom. Slide a piece of paper between the door and the frame all around the perimeter — where the paper won't slide, the door is binding. Look at the gap between the door and frame: it should be 1/8 inch on all sides. Mark the rubbing area with a pencil.
Look at the top of the door from the hinge side. If the door is tilted so the top latch corner hits the frame, the hinge screws are the likely culprit.
Tighten the Hinge Screws
Step 2 of 6Open the door and tighten all hinge screws on both the door and the frame sides. Loose hinge screws are the #1 cause of sticking doors because the door sags when the top hinge pulls away from the frame. Start with the top hinge — it bears the most weight. If the screws spin freely (the holes are stripped), remove them and try the fix in the next step.
Fix Stripped Hinge Screw Holes
Step 3 of 6If a screw hole is stripped (the screw turns but won't tighten), remove the screw. Dip 2-3 round wooden toothpicks in wood glue and tap them into the hole with a hammer. Break them off flush with a utility knife. Wait 30 minutes for the glue to set, then drill a pilot hole and drive the screw back in. For a stronger fix, replace the short factory screw with a 3-inch screw that reaches the wall stud behind the frame.
Replacing the top hinge's center screw with a 3-inch screw is the single most effective fix for a sagging door. The long screw reaches the wall framing and pulls the frame (and door) back into alignment.
Plane or Sand the Rubbing Edge
Step 4 of 6If the door still sticks after fixing the hinges, you need to remove material from the rubbing edge. Mark the area that needs trimming with a pencil. For minor rubs, use a sanding block with 80-grit sandpaper directly on the edge without removing the door. For more material removal, take the door off its hinges (tap the hinge pins up with a hammer and nail set), lay it on sawhorses, and use a hand plane to shave the marked area.
Adjust the Strike Plate (If the Latch Doesn't Catch)
Step 5 of 6If the door closes but the latch doesn't click into the strike plate, the plate needs adjustment. Close the door and observe where the latch hits the plate — it usually misses high or low. Unscrew the strike plate, enlarge the mortise (the recess in the frame) with a chisel in the needed direction, and reattach the plate in its new position. Alternatively, file the strike plate opening larger with a metal file.
Rehang, Seal, and Test
Step 6 of 6If you removed the door, rehang it by aligning the hinges and tapping the pins back in (insert the bottom pin first, then the top). Test the door through its full swing — it should open, close, and latch smoothly. Apply primer and paint to any exposed bare wood from planing or sanding. Unsealed wood absorbs moisture and will swell again, recreating the original problem.
Seal all six edges of an exterior door (including the top and bottom) with primer and paint. Moisture entering through unsealed edges is a primary cause of wood swelling.
Recommended Products
Classic smoothing plane for trimming door edges. Adjustable blade depth for fine or aggressive cuts. Cast iron body with hardwood handles. A lifetime tool.
Self-countersinking, self-tapping structural screws. No pre-drilling needed. Perfect for replacing short hinge screws with ones that reach the framing.
Flexible foam sanding sponge for contoured surfaces and edges. 80-grit cuts quickly for door edge material removal. Washable and reusable.
Affiliate Disclosure: We earn a small commission when you buy through our links at no extra cost to you.
Tips & Warnings
- The 3-inch screw fix for the top hinge is the most effective single repair for sticking doors. It works 80% of the time and costs $0.50.
- If the door only sticks seasonally (summer humidity), wait for dry weather to plane it, and be conservative — you don't want a gap in winter.
- Rub candle wax or bar soap on a rubbing edge as a temporary fix. It reduces friction and buys time.
- If the door frame is visibly out of square (check with a level), the house has settled. Shimming the hinges can compensate for minor settling.
- Don't remove too much material when planing. It's better to make two light passes than one deep pass. You can't add wood back.
- When removing a heavy solid-wood door, have a helper. Interior doors weigh 25-40 pounds; exterior doors can weigh 60-80 pounds.
Frequently Asked Questions
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